Another Rope Machine Modification
In a previous post titled "Rope Maker", I made a rope making machine per the specs in the Pioneering MB pamphlet, but bolted it to a trailer hitch for stability. That arrangement was kind of clunky, and expensive for anybody who doesn't have extra trailer hitches lying around. So I came up with a different solution. I mounted the rope maker to a 2x2x20" piece of wood and drilled a 5/8" hole in it for the hitch pin.
First I took some 2x4 scraps and cut them 20" long, then ripped them to 1x2".
Then I glued them together and clamped them up overnight. If I had it to do over again, I would have cut them slightly oversized, then trimmed them to 2x2" after the glue-up.
Then I marked the location for the hitch pin hole at 2-3/4" and centered on both sides. I measured 3 hitches that I had in my garage. 2 of them had the hole centered at 2-3/4" from the end and the third was at 2.5", so I went with 2-3/4". I drilled the hole with a 5/8" spade bit starting on one side and going half way through, then flipping the piece over and finished from the other side to make a clean hole.
I thought I might have to round off the corners to get it to fit in the hitch receiver, but it fit perfectly with no wiggle.
To mount the rope machine, I drilled some pilot holes so as not to split apart the 2 boards I had just glued together.
Then I screwed it in place.
The new design is much lighter and has a lower material cost than the previous method shown below.
Refer to my previous post titled "Twisted" to see how to add a swivel to this system that allows for much easier rope making.
First I took some 2x4 scraps and cut them 20" long, then ripped them to 1x2".
Then I glued them together and clamped them up overnight. If I had it to do over again, I would have cut them slightly oversized, then trimmed them to 2x2" after the glue-up.
Then I marked the location for the hitch pin hole at 2-3/4" and centered on both sides. I measured 3 hitches that I had in my garage. 2 of them had the hole centered at 2-3/4" from the end and the third was at 2.5", so I went with 2-3/4". I drilled the hole with a 5/8" spade bit starting on one side and going half way through, then flipping the piece over and finished from the other side to make a clean hole.
To mount the rope machine, I drilled some pilot holes so as not to split apart the 2 boards I had just glued together.
Then I screwed it in place.
The new design is much lighter and has a lower material cost than the previous method shown below.
Refer to my previous post titled "Twisted" to see how to add a swivel to this system that allows for much easier rope making.
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