Sewing Machine
If you don't have one already, you should get a sewing machine. A simple low end Singer from Walmart will do. They run about $100 - $125. If you are male, think of it as a power tool, which it is. They are not that hard to figure out. Although many machines have complex features, like button hole stitching, you really only need to know how to run a straight stitch for 99% of projects. Maybe an occasional zigzag stitch (also not difficult) for repairs. Once you have a sewing machine and you start using it, you will wonder how you ever got along without one. Once you repair a few items of clothing, the machine will have paid for itself. Besides the sewing machine itself, you will need thread in various colors (see below), extra bobbins, a heavy denim needle for patches, and some scissors.
Basic Skills
You need to now how to put thread on the bobbin and how to thread the machine. You also need to know how to set the stitch length. These are simple and covered in the instruction manual. Running a straight stitch is easy. There is a reverse button on the machine, you will want to start stitching about 1/2", then back up a 1/2", then go forward again. This will lock the end of the stitch so it doesn't unravel. You will want to lock the other end when you finish. One common problem is called "nesting." This is when the thread bunches up on the underside of the fabric. This can be fixed by setting the thread tension on the upper thread (the one on the spool, not the bobbin). You can find YouTube videos that show you how to do this. Practice on some scrap cloth before you try to sew anything that matters.
Patches
Patches can be tricky to sew on. The fabric will sometimes bunch up under the patch, leaving a less than aesthetic result. I use Badge Magic to hold the patch in place, then sew it on. This may seem redundant, like belt and suspenders, but I have found that patches will eventually peel off if you use Badge Magic alone. Cut the Badge Magic smaller so that it does not cover the border of the patch where the needle goes through. It will gum up the needle. I like to manually turn the big knob (toward you) on the side of the machine and carefully place each stitch. It is a bit tedious, but gives good results. You don't need to lock the beginning and end for patches. Since you are going to be coming around to where you started anyway, just overlap it about 1/2". For merit badges, I trace around Kennedy half dollar onto the Badge Magic to get the perfect size. I like to use a "denim" needle for patches because it is stronger.
Thread Colors (Coats brand)
scout shirt and many patch borders - khaki 8440
scout pants - olive 291A
merit badge border - light green (non-Eagle required) 6280
white is just white for Eagle required badges
Velcro
For patches that are frequently changed, like rank and position, I like to use Velcro. You can get these in scout patch shapes from a company called The Goose's Cache. I sew the soft side onto the shirt. I use Badge Magic only to attach the patch to the rough side of the velcro. The patch probably won't be used long enough for it to come off.
I already posted how to make a patrol flag. I'll post some more sewing projects later, like how to sew a zipper into a woobie (poncho liner) to make a lightweight summer sleeping bag. And how to make elastic keepers for your pack straps.
Basic Skills
You need to now how to put thread on the bobbin and how to thread the machine. You also need to know how to set the stitch length. These are simple and covered in the instruction manual. Running a straight stitch is easy. There is a reverse button on the machine, you will want to start stitching about 1/2", then back up a 1/2", then go forward again. This will lock the end of the stitch so it doesn't unravel. You will want to lock the other end when you finish. One common problem is called "nesting." This is when the thread bunches up on the underside of the fabric. This can be fixed by setting the thread tension on the upper thread (the one on the spool, not the bobbin). You can find YouTube videos that show you how to do this. Practice on some scrap cloth before you try to sew anything that matters.
Patches
Patches can be tricky to sew on. The fabric will sometimes bunch up under the patch, leaving a less than aesthetic result. I use Badge Magic to hold the patch in place, then sew it on. This may seem redundant, like belt and suspenders, but I have found that patches will eventually peel off if you use Badge Magic alone. Cut the Badge Magic smaller so that it does not cover the border of the patch where the needle goes through. It will gum up the needle. I like to manually turn the big knob (toward you) on the side of the machine and carefully place each stitch. It is a bit tedious, but gives good results. You don't need to lock the beginning and end for patches. Since you are going to be coming around to where you started anyway, just overlap it about 1/2". For merit badges, I trace around Kennedy half dollar onto the Badge Magic to get the perfect size. I like to use a "denim" needle for patches because it is stronger.
Thread Colors (Coats brand)
scout shirt and many patch borders - khaki 8440
scout pants - olive 291A
merit badge border - light green (non-Eagle required) 6280
white is just white for Eagle required badges
Velcro
For patches that are frequently changed, like rank and position, I like to use Velcro. You can get these in scout patch shapes from a company called The Goose's Cache. I sew the soft side onto the shirt. I use Badge Magic only to attach the patch to the rough side of the velcro. The patch probably won't be used long enough for it to come off.
I already posted how to make a patrol flag. I'll post some more sewing projects later, like how to sew a zipper into a woobie (poncho liner) to make a lightweight summer sleeping bag. And how to make elastic keepers for your pack straps.
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